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Subject: Check fuse 21, then...
Author: mccall52 : member since November, 2007 : 46 posts
Posted on: 2009-07-14 10:51:00      
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Hello,

I recently had trouble with my heat not shutting off, even after replacing my heater valve with a new one. The IHKA control module supplies sufficient ground signal to the heater valves, but I still get one side full heat, the other not as cold as it should be.

First, make sure fuse 21 in the front fuse panel is OK.

After that, I found that the microswitch inside the IHKA control panel which opens to command full heat (done by dialing the driver side temperature wheel past 87 degrees f until it clicks) was malfunctioning, causing the 12v signal to open.

To test, find the small 2 or 3-pin plug (depends on year) on the rear of the IHKA control panel. It will have two green wires with brown tracer, one of those will have yellow tick marks. The one with yellow tick marks should have 12v (fuse 21) when the car is running. Leave the connector plugged in, and backprobe using a voltmeter the other green/brown wire (with no tick marks) and see if there is 12v there as well.

Mine failed this test, as the 12v signal was intermittent depending on where the temperature wheel was set. I bypassed the switch for now until I can dive in to fix it properly.

I have not had any problems with the heat staying on since. Hope this helps, since it was quite frustrating.

Thanks,
Patrick

01/90 735i Island green/Natural 245k mi.

Retrofits/Upgrades:
Passenger side power lumbar
Auto dimming rear view mirror (1991-92 style)
LED illumination upgrades in switches with failed bulbs
iL front bumper with working headlamp washers (original bumper was beat up when I bought the car)
IR keyless remote entry components, still need the remote :-(
Rebuilt heater box with brand new center section (not really upgrade per se)

01/94 M-B C280 W202.028 Light blue(348)/Dark blue (102) 113k mi.
03/96 Lincoln Town Car Executive Willow green/ivory 88k mi.



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